Luang Prabang, Laos

Our first sunset (one of many) in Laos, overlooking the mighty Mekong River.

Our next destination following Cambodia was Laos (Pronounced “La-Oh” – like “Wow”) or more accurately, the LPDR – Laos People's Democratic Republic. Since my Cambodia entry was somewhat depressing, I won't go into detail about how Laos was bombed back to the stone age during various wars. But it was, and sadly most Americans don't have a clue about the legacy of suffering left behind by our actions there. Most of us (myself included up until we started planning this trip) probably can't definitively pick out Laos on a map, and that's too bad because it is such a special, wonderful little country.

At this stage in the trip, we opted for planes over buses, trains and boats.

Originally, we planned to visit several places in Laos. However, we had serious doubts about our ability to travel overland for such huge distances. Put simply, it was at this stage in the trip that our nerves and patience were getting a bit frayed – especially regarding long bus trips. The enormous distance between Siem Reap and Laos would have meant spending literally days in buses on roads that were reputed to be bumpy, winding, and not in the best of shape. Air travel is obviously more expensive, however, and we're on a budget. Fortunately, we discovered the Discovery Airpass...a discount multi-flight program offered via Bangkok, Laos and other partner airlines. It cost a little more, but we felt it was worth it.

You're not in Kansas any more when your Diet Coke can looks like this!

Opting to travel by air required us to limit our travel in Laos to pretty much one place, and there was never really any question where to go: Luang Prabang.

Once again, the Mekong River is central to the history and culture of a city and its people.

Bridge to a neighboring village, located just across the Nam Khan river which straddles the Luang Prabang peninsula.

Located in highlands of the country, this is probably Laos' most famous destination – an ancient town located on the banks of the Mekong River, steeped in tradition and heritage, and set against a backdrop of rugged, forest-clad mountains. Golden temples (called wats) seem to be on every corner (there are 33 of them in this small town!) intermixed with old colonial buildings and streets lined with cafes, shops and restaurants. The land around Luang Prabang is rugged and rural, adding to the effect.

No horn honking?  Are you sure we're still in SE Asia?

The first thing you notice when arriving in Luang Prabang is that it's quieter and easier than many other places in Southeast Asia. Some people say that LPDR stands for “Laos Please Don't Rush,” referring to the laid-back feeling in the country. In Luang Prabang at least, it's accurate. Roads are two-lane and you can easily cross them. There isn't the constant blaring of horns and teeming hordes of motorbikes. Tuk Tuk drivers ask you just once if you need a ride. You can get everywhere on foot (or even better by bicycle, which is what we did and it was fantastic). 

Luang Prabang sunsets seem to slow-burn, with colors evocative of the yellow and amber robes worn by the town's Buddhist monks.

After dark, Luang Prabang comes alive with colorful food and shopping stalls

Every night, the town's adrenaline level increases just slightly with colorful night markets serving a huge array of Laos cuisines. A kilometer-long stretch of road fills with stalls selling locally-made handicrafts such as jewelry and clothing.

Wat Chom Si sits atop Mount Phu Si, right in the center of town. From here, you can see across the entire region.
Sunsets are standing room only. The photo at right is a close-up of the temple's gilded stupa.

Before visiting a temple, you might like to buy an offering made of marigold flowers.

 

Barefoot is the only way to enter a temple!  Right: Rooftop Nagas form spires on many of the structures.

 Many temples have protective Nagas lining the balustrades, acting as guardians to the shrine.

Luang Prabang is yet another World Heritage Site and for that reason is a major destination for tourists like us. To be fair, foreigners do seem to outnumber the locals and everything is geared towards tourism. Tour companies are everywhere, selling river cruises and trips to nearby attractions such as waterfalls, elephant parks and ethnic villages. Eco-tourism is really taking off in Laos and it's easy to see why with such beautiful landscapes. We took a day-hike tour that included a visit to minority hilltribe villages, through dense highland jungle and finished with a swim at the gorgeous Kuang Si Falls (truly jaw-droppingly gorgeous – but very cold water!).

An emerald green pit viper we saw during a jungle hike near Luang Prabang.
Not the best photo, but I didn't want to get too close!

 

Kuang Si Falls is an amazing (if cold) place to swim after a hot trek through the jungle.
The falls are spring-fed and limestone in the water creates the milky blue effect.

Monks making their daily morning rounds during the alms-giving ceremony.

One of the most popular 'things to do/see' in Luang Prabang is the morning alm-giving ceremony involving the local Buddhist Monks. Each morning around 6 a.m., monks from the various wats around town line up to receive offerings in the form of food (rice, mostly). Monks may only eat food received in this manner, and giving alms to monks is how a person can 'make merit' in the Buddhist faith.

A local woman gives alms (in this case, sticky rice) to monks.

To the people of Luang Prabang, the alms-giving ceremony is a very special – and personally significant – tradition. Unfortunately, it's threatened a bit by all of the tourist attention. Huge flocks of foreigners arrive each day via minibuses, crowding around the scene to take photos. Many people don't keep a respectable distance, and fail to observe proper form when in the presence of the monks. (for my interpreter friends, here's a link to a PDF article you may find of interest). And believe me, there are a lot of rules about interactions and behavior around monks! In an effort to help, many organizations have created guides for tourists that detail the do's and dont's when visiting Laos.

 Wat Ho Prabang, one of the city's grandest temples, is located in former Royal Compound and Gardens.
Nearby is the National Museum (formerly a Royal Palace).

We only visited one location in Laos, but what a gem it was. We spent seven days in Luang Prabang and enjoyed it thoroughly. At this stage in our travels, it was perfect timing for LP's character. Like Cambodia, the visit left us intrigued enough to want to go back and see more -- not just there but the rest of the country. But as much as we enjoyed it, the long-awaited final chapters of our trip awaited us in Thailand. Next stop: Chiang Mai and a visit to see some elephants!

Final sunset on a cruise of the Mekong

Cambodia

Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor

Goodbye, Vietnam!

There are places that stir the soul and fire the imagination, creating a sense of anticipation (and even apprehension) before you arrive and stirring feelings that last long after you've gone. Cambodia is such a place. From the moment we crossed the border from Vietnam into Cambodia, it was clear we were in new territory. The roads were a bit rougher, the landscape more rural. We knew the this country would be one of highlights of our trip, and also one of the most challenging – if not physically, then almost certainly from an emotional point of view.

Stacey is greeted by a nāga (the first of many we would see in Cambodia) at Wat Phnom

Our first port of call was Phnom Penh, at the confluence of the Mekong, Bassac and Tonle Sap Rivers. Like Cambodia itself, this city has a history that is both seductive and repulsive. This very good article by travel writer Ian Buruma captures the essence of the place very well. During the 1920s, it was known as the “Pearl of Asia”, a bustling capital known for magnificent architecture, temples and a thriving economy. This changed dramatically after the Khmer Rouge came to power, when the populace either fled or were captured and put in re-education camps. At its worst, the city was practically a ghost town. Like the rest of the country, it stagnated and sat crumbling until 1979 when the regime was ousted by the Vietnamese. 

The fantastic Cambodian National Museum is a must-see destination in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh has re-asserted itself in the years since then as the leading economic center of the country, with a population of around 2 million people. Today, the people of Phnom Penh are busy rebuilding and restoring their beloved city and making it better than ever.

 

Stupas of all sizes and colors are another feature of Cambodian Buddhist Temples

Two favorite forms of transportation in Cambodia - the Cyclo (Cycle Rickshaw) and the Tuk Tuk!

The Vietnam-Cambodia Friendship Monument, erected in the 1970's.  Vietnam briefly occupied Cambodia after removing the Khmer Rouge from power.  Despite this beneficial act, being Vietnam's neighbor has been mostly detrimental to Cambodia over the course of history.

Cambodia has seen the best and worst of human achievement and behavior. It is hard to reconcile how this country, the home of one of the world's greatest religious wonders, can also be the birthplace of the brutal Khmer Rouge, a twisted dictatorship that systematically murdered around 2 million people. Before that, Cambodia found itself stuck in the middle of competing global powers at the height of the Cold War, making it a staging ground for Vietnam resistance and a subsequent bombing target for the U.S. Military (see Cambodia Campaign). To say that Cambodia has been through Hell is an understatement. 

A commemorative stupa filled with the skulls of the victims at Choeung Ek.

Not far from the Phnom Penh is Choeung Ek, dubbed the 'Killing Fields'.  It's the site of some of the most heinous crimes conducted by the Khmer Rouge. Visiting this place is quite an emotional experience.  It's incredibly sad to hear the stories of what happened there. It also is a reminder of how lucky we are, and how clueless the rest of the world can sometimes be about the plight of people in troubled countries in the dark corners of the world. Personally, I (William) was not looking forward to seeing this place but the sad truth is that you cannot really understand Cambodia without knowing this side of its history.  

The "Magic Tree" where a loudspeaker blaring music was used to hide the sounds of executions being conducted, so that local villagers wouldn't hear what was happening at Choeung Ek.

Unlike it's neighbor Vietnam, Cambodia's re-emergence from darkness is relatively recent, the scars not quite healed, and yet you rarely see it in the faces of the people. Cambodians are perhaps Southeast Asia's most spirited and vivacious. There is a sense that people seem to love life. Perhaps they appreciate living in the moment more because they know firsthand that life is short. This is probably why many travelers love Cambodia so much.  

People out having a great time at one of Phnom Penh's Night Markets.

Selling tasty things at the Night Market

From Phnom Penh, we traveled north to Siem Reap. Interestingly, the name translates as “Siam Defeated” and refers to a past victory against Siam (today called Thailand). Siem Reap is a tourist town, no doubt about it – sustained by its proximity to the magnificent Temples of Angkor. Bars, restaurants, massage parlors, and hotels of every shape and size can be found here, and it's a perfect base for exploring the temples and other nearby attractions.  And of course, if you're looking for something really different, you can always go for a Fish Massage...

Oh My God, it tickled!

"Never try, never know!"

After months of travel, these fish had their work cut out for them!

Siem Reap had lots of night life including markets and food stalls

Siem Reap had lots of open-air 'video cafes' -- filled with seating almost like a movie theater, but with multiple video screens playing everything from sports to music videos!  In front are rows of parked motorbikes.

Bakong Temple was our first temple - fantastic at sunset!  In the foreground are orange-robed Buddhist monks.

We stayed in Siem Reap about a week – longer than many people – and were very happy we did. Many people fly in and do a whirlwind (and exhausting) tour of temples. While Angkor Wat is the most famous, what many people don't realize is that there are literally dozens of temples spread around the area. We chose instead to do a few each day, which allowed us more time to explore and see them in greater detail.

Rice paddy near Angkor.  Cambodia is one of the world's biggest producers of rice.

Each day we rode out to see new temples with our trusty Tuk Tuk driver!

View of the countryside from the Tuk Tuk - a great way to start the day!

Sunrise view of Ankgor Wat.

Interior courtyard of Angkor Wat

Lion-dragons guard this staircase at Angkor Wat

Many of the less-famous temples are, quite frankly, even more amazing in their own way than Angkor Wat. Angkor Thom and the Bayon with its giant, serene faces was a highlight, as was Banteay Srei with it's intricately-detailed pink sandstone carvings. The award for 'Most Enigmatic' would probably go to Ta Prohm and its ruins covered in giant, twisting tree roots that seem to sprout from every wall. 

What follows are a very small selection of photos from various temples...Enjoy!

The Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of massive stone faces

Smiling pleasantly and facing the four corners of the universe.

Beautifully-detailed wall carvings depict moments in history.

The amazing Terrace of the Elephants

Terrace of the Elephants, part of the Bayon Temple complex

Giant trees and jungle shroud Ta Phrom in mystery...look closely and you can see Stacey on the left!

Exploring Ta Phrom is like walking onto a set from an Indiana Jones movie (no doubt why Tomb Raider was filmed there!).

Trees seem to sprout right from the ruins.  This one had a beautiful metallic sheen to the bark.

Tree roots spread over the ruins like alien organisms, giving it an other-worldly feeling

 

Monkeys guard a doorway to Benteay Srei - the" Gem in the Crown" of Angkor's Temples

 

Banteay Srei is constructed from pink sandstone and features multiple towers and libraries.

  

Banteay Srei has the most exquisite and beautiful stone carvings!

 

Closeup view of the library pediment which depicts the burning of Khandava Forest. 

Center: mandapa in front of the central tower
Far right: A pediment shows Narasimha clawing Hiranyakasipu

 

 

Here we are at Banteay Srei (can you tell it was one of our favorite temples?) 

Next stop: Luang Prabang, Loas!