Luang Prabang, Laos

Our first sunset (one of many) in Laos, overlooking the mighty Mekong River.

Our next destination following Cambodia was Laos (Pronounced “La-Oh” – like “Wow”) or more accurately, the LPDR – Laos People's Democratic Republic. Since my Cambodia entry was somewhat depressing, I won't go into detail about how Laos was bombed back to the stone age during various wars. But it was, and sadly most Americans don't have a clue about the legacy of suffering left behind by our actions there. Most of us (myself included up until we started planning this trip) probably can't definitively pick out Laos on a map, and that's too bad because it is such a special, wonderful little country.

At this stage in the trip, we opted for planes over buses, trains and boats.

Originally, we planned to visit several places in Laos. However, we had serious doubts about our ability to travel overland for such huge distances. Put simply, it was at this stage in the trip that our nerves and patience were getting a bit frayed – especially regarding long bus trips. The enormous distance between Siem Reap and Laos would have meant spending literally days in buses on roads that were reputed to be bumpy, winding, and not in the best of shape. Air travel is obviously more expensive, however, and we're on a budget. Fortunately, we discovered the Discovery Airpass...a discount multi-flight program offered via Bangkok, Laos and other partner airlines. It cost a little more, but we felt it was worth it.

You're not in Kansas any more when your Diet Coke can looks like this!

Opting to travel by air required us to limit our travel in Laos to pretty much one place, and there was never really any question where to go: Luang Prabang.

Once again, the Mekong River is central to the history and culture of a city and its people.

Bridge to a neighboring village, located just across the Nam Khan river which straddles the Luang Prabang peninsula.

Located in highlands of the country, this is probably Laos' most famous destination – an ancient town located on the banks of the Mekong River, steeped in tradition and heritage, and set against a backdrop of rugged, forest-clad mountains. Golden temples (called wats) seem to be on every corner (there are 33 of them in this small town!) intermixed with old colonial buildings and streets lined with cafes, shops and restaurants. The land around Luang Prabang is rugged and rural, adding to the effect.

No horn honking?  Are you sure we're still in SE Asia?

The first thing you notice when arriving in Luang Prabang is that it's quieter and easier than many other places in Southeast Asia. Some people say that LPDR stands for “Laos Please Don't Rush,” referring to the laid-back feeling in the country. In Luang Prabang at least, it's accurate. Roads are two-lane and you can easily cross them. There isn't the constant blaring of horns and teeming hordes of motorbikes. Tuk Tuk drivers ask you just once if you need a ride. You can get everywhere on foot (or even better by bicycle, which is what we did and it was fantastic). 

Luang Prabang sunsets seem to slow-burn, with colors evocative of the yellow and amber robes worn by the town's Buddhist monks.

After dark, Luang Prabang comes alive with colorful food and shopping stalls

Every night, the town's adrenaline level increases just slightly with colorful night markets serving a huge array of Laos cuisines. A kilometer-long stretch of road fills with stalls selling locally-made handicrafts such as jewelry and clothing.

Wat Chom Si sits atop Mount Phu Si, right in the center of town. From here, you can see across the entire region.
Sunsets are standing room only. The photo at right is a close-up of the temple's gilded stupa.

Before visiting a temple, you might like to buy an offering made of marigold flowers.

 

Barefoot is the only way to enter a temple!  Right: Rooftop Nagas form spires on many of the structures.

 Many temples have protective Nagas lining the balustrades, acting as guardians to the shrine.

Luang Prabang is yet another World Heritage Site and for that reason is a major destination for tourists like us. To be fair, foreigners do seem to outnumber the locals and everything is geared towards tourism. Tour companies are everywhere, selling river cruises and trips to nearby attractions such as waterfalls, elephant parks and ethnic villages. Eco-tourism is really taking off in Laos and it's easy to see why with such beautiful landscapes. We took a day-hike tour that included a visit to minority hilltribe villages, through dense highland jungle and finished with a swim at the gorgeous Kuang Si Falls (truly jaw-droppingly gorgeous – but very cold water!).

An emerald green pit viper we saw during a jungle hike near Luang Prabang.
Not the best photo, but I didn't want to get too close!

 

Kuang Si Falls is an amazing (if cold) place to swim after a hot trek through the jungle.
The falls are spring-fed and limestone in the water creates the milky blue effect.

Monks making their daily morning rounds during the alms-giving ceremony.

One of the most popular 'things to do/see' in Luang Prabang is the morning alm-giving ceremony involving the local Buddhist Monks. Each morning around 6 a.m., monks from the various wats around town line up to receive offerings in the form of food (rice, mostly). Monks may only eat food received in this manner, and giving alms to monks is how a person can 'make merit' in the Buddhist faith.

A local woman gives alms (in this case, sticky rice) to monks.

To the people of Luang Prabang, the alms-giving ceremony is a very special – and personally significant – tradition. Unfortunately, it's threatened a bit by all of the tourist attention. Huge flocks of foreigners arrive each day via minibuses, crowding around the scene to take photos. Many people don't keep a respectable distance, and fail to observe proper form when in the presence of the monks. (for my interpreter friends, here's a link to a PDF article you may find of interest). And believe me, there are a lot of rules about interactions and behavior around monks! In an effort to help, many organizations have created guides for tourists that detail the do's and dont's when visiting Laos.

 Wat Ho Prabang, one of the city's grandest temples, is located in former Royal Compound and Gardens.
Nearby is the National Museum (formerly a Royal Palace).

We only visited one location in Laos, but what a gem it was. We spent seven days in Luang Prabang and enjoyed it thoroughly. At this stage in our travels, it was perfect timing for LP's character. Like Cambodia, the visit left us intrigued enough to want to go back and see more -- not just there but the rest of the country. But as much as we enjoyed it, the long-awaited final chapters of our trip awaited us in Thailand. Next stop: Chiang Mai and a visit to see some elephants!

Final sunset on a cruise of the Mekong